LED strips look straightforward myeverlights. You peel the backing, stick it on the wall, flip the switch. Give it 48 hours: one end has come loose from the shelf, and the far end is only half as bright as the start.
Let's begin with the sticking problems. Even top-quality adhesive tape fails to bond on textured paint, dirty wood, or greasy surfaces. Clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry. Mounting clips or aluminum profiles hold far better than tape alone on rough surfaces, and a channel doubles as a diffuser that blends the dotted look of individual diodes.
A dim far end means voltage drop. Surprisingly, 12V strips lose power along their copper traces over long runs. The tail end of runs of about five meters or more will start to fade. Either power it from both ends or choose 24V, which handles long distances much better.
Many buyers stumble on power supply sizing. To size a power supply: calculate the strip's total wattage and buy a supply rated at least 20% higher. A power supply pushed to full load wears out sooner and may even overheat.
Cutting is the next trap. You can only cut a strip safely at the marked copper pads, usually every three diodes. Cut elsewhere and that piece won't receive power. To rejoin a cut strip, use solderless connectors or solder carefully.
Think about where moisture will show up. Bathrooms, kitchens, and porch patios require an IP65 or higher rated strip with a silicone coating. A basic indoor strip installed close to the sink won't survive the season.
Last, choose controls with foresight. Simple remotes control color and brightness; app controls add scheduling and music sync. Certain RGBIC strip lights can display two or more colors simultaneously on the same strip - a nice touch for a feature wall, though an unneeded extra cost under the cabinets.
Draw up a plan, verify the measurements twice, and the install becomes easy.