LED strips look simple myeverlights. You peel the backing, stick it on the wall, flip the switch. Give it 48 hours: one end is dangling off the shelf while the other end glows at half the brightness of the first.
Sticking issues first. Even the best tape won't grab well if the surface paint is textured, the wood surface is dirty, or it's oily. Wipe the area with isopropyl alcohol and give it time to dry. Aluminum channels or mounting clips on rough surfaces work much better than tape alone, and a channel doubles as a diffuser that blends the dotted look of individual diodes.
Dimming at the far end = voltage drop. Somewhat counterintuitively, 12V strips lose power along their copper traces over long runs. Past roughly five meters, the tail end begins to dim. Feed power from both ends, or switch to 24V, which copes with distance far better.
Many buyers stumble on power supply sizing. Here's how to size one: total the strip's wattage, then pick a power supply with at least 20% extra capacity. Operating at maximum load strains a power supply, cuts its lifespan, and can cause overheating.
Cutting is the next trap. You can only cut a strip safely at the marked copper pads, usually every three diodes. Cut elsewhere and that piece won't receive power. Reconnecting a cut strip takes solderless connectors or a steady hand with a soldering iron.
Consider where the moisture will be. Bathrooms, kitchens, and covered patios call for a silicone-coated strip rated IP65 or above. A basic indoor strip installed close to the sink won't survive the season.
Last, choose controls with foresight. Simple remotes control color and brightness; app controls add scheduling and music sync. Certain RGBIC strip lights can display two or more colors simultaneously on the same strip - great for a feature wall, but unnecessary and pricier under cabinets.
Draw up a plan, verify the measurements twice, and the install becomes easy.